Day 31 - Varanasi

While the road to Dharamsala proved disappointing, the road from Dharamsala, it turns out, is the road of legend. Yes, it's the same road. But something about speeding down steep mountain roads navigating hairpin turns and narrow lanes in the dark of night in a large bus is both frightening and terrible for those who suffer from motion sickness (which Laura and I apparently both do). I will admit that my cockiness regarding the road up did little to prepare me for the queasiness of the road down. At one point, I was convinced that I was going to throw up, but somewhere someone took pity on my and the driver stopped for a 20 minute break. I was also relieved to see I was not alone judging from the vomit on the other side of the once clean bus (too much?)

Highlight of the trip so far for me: Laura and checked out of our guest house and trudged with our giant backpacks up the steep Dharamsala streets to the bus stand. It happened to coincide with the time the children get out of school. I was walking up the hill when I heard Laura laugh from behind me. As I turned to look at her, I saw a young boy (no more than 4 or 5) walking beside me with his school backpack, clearly imitating me with exaggerated footsteps and a stern look on his face. He smiled up at me and then continued the mine so I did the only thing I could do. I exaggerated my steps in time with his and put a stern look on my face. I also gestured to the boy that my thumbs were under my shoulder straps and he, smiling, proceeded to do the same. So, with thumbs in our straps and stern expressions, we trudged animatedly up the hill side by side, with Laura and a woman we assume to be his mother laughing behind us. Eventually, the woman said something to the boy and I caught the phrase "Bye-bye". Obediently, the boy looked up at me, smiled, said "bye-bye" and followed his mother through a doorway. Needless to say, I still think of that kid and laugh.

Train, apparently, is the way to travel in India. Although it's certainly no faster than a bus, it is far more comfortable. We made it to Varanasi this morning and I met Rinpoche this afternoon. I must admit, even after all I've heard from Laura and her family, I was surprised at how impossible it is to not love him instantly. He is so warm and welcoming and gave me a big hug and smile. He was also clearly so excited to see that Laura was here that I couldn't help but smile the whole time. I'm excited for this week in Bodhgaya and can't wait to tell you how it turns out.

For some reason, though I can't explain it right now, I have a strong desire to end this post the way someone important to me ends all of his e-mails.

Plant Sequoias