Monday, December 28, 2009

Day 96 - Shukranagar

We made it safely to our final farm, though we went a little too far on the bus and the subsequent cab driver we relied on got lost and took two hours and a phone call to find the farm. The Bhattarai family is incredibly nice, warm and welcoming. When we arrived there were four other volunteers (3 from France, 1 from Norway), so quarters were a little cramped. There are two rooms for volunteers in a small building detached from the main house. The girl from Norway graciously gave up the room she had been staying in to allow Laura and me to move in, and she squeezed in with the 3 French girls. It made sense considering that one room has only a single bed while the other has two.

The work has been fine and the schedule incredibly volunteer-friendly. There are two meals a day and Balram, the head of the household, does not want volunteers working without eating. The first meal, however, usually falls sometime between 10 and 11, so we could theoretically sleep until then no problem. Usually, though, we wake up between 7 and 8 and just hang out, wander into the village, or read until breakfast. Sometime after we’ve eaten (with no particular emphasis on time) we begin work. The first day we irrigated the mustard fields. The second day we broke down haystacks into a giant pile of hay in front of the house (which the village children spent hours playing in). The third day we dug four holes, making a square, and put logs in them. The fourth day we built a giant haystack in the area with the freshly placed poles. The fifth day we dug up some grasses and replanted them along the irrigation channel (the grass, which grows in bunches to be quite tall, is used to feed the buffalo). Then, it was Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and we were allowed to rest and celebrate.

All six of us volunteers decorated a small tree out front as our honorary Christmas tree. We prepared meals based on foods our respective countries eat (though the French girls stole Mashed Potatoes so Laura and I made hashbrowns with eggs and corn-on-the-cob). We exchanged small gifts. We sang Carols in three different languages. It was nice.

The other four left the day after Christmas, though two of the French girls say they will be coming back the first week of January. There were two things the French girls were excited for: harvesting honey and seeing the pregnant buffalo give birth. Both have happened since they left. The day after Christmas (just one day too late to rightfully name the baby buffalo Jesus), Laura and I ate freshly roasted corn kernels and watched a live buffalo birth. It was surprisingly less disgusting then I anticipated, and the mama buffalo handled the whole thing with incredible ease and strength. Neither Balram nor Dorga (the matriarch of the family) intervened until the baby had plopped onto the ground from three feet in the air. Laura and I continued to watch and shout encouraging words as the baby attempted its first steps. We christened her Janeane Garbuffalo. Laura calls her Buffy for short.

Today we helped harvest honey. It was slightly nerve-wracking having bees flying all around while Balram stole the honeycomb frames from the box-hives and brought them inside the net (which was riddled with holes that let bees in, not to mention all the bees that clung desperately to the frames of honeycomb). Dorga scraped the layers of wax off the frames with a knife so that Laura and I could load them in the cylindrical machine, which is operated by spinning a handle and uses centrifugal force to spin honey out of the comb against the walls of the cylinder. The honey (and any hopeless bees that remained in the comb) oozes down the sides, eventually finding the hole in the bottom and oozes out a pipe into the waiting strainer and bucket. It’s amazing we didn’t get stung. Balram, on the other hand, with no bee suit like you see in the movies, gets stung hundreds of times invading the hives. He says stings are good for your health. I don’t think Macauley Culkin’s character in My Girl agrees.

Tomorrow we harvest more honey. Stay tuned to hear how that goes. Hope you all had the happiest of holidays. And Happy New Year if I don’t get to post before then.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Day 84 - Boudha

We leave Kathmandu in two days for Chitwan and our next farm experience. There is no guarantee that we'll have much internet access, so I figured that I'd update now while I have the chance.
Boudha is still very calm and relaxing and I've taken the opportunity to do some reading. Now that I'm out of school, my reading list seems to all be political/historical non-fiction. I read a book by Noam Chomsky and another one by a Pakistani historian about the history of Islam in the Middle East. I also read a book Laura bought about a Tibetan Tulku that fled to India after Chinese occupation. It's been good. The Omnivore's Dilemma is next, but I'm not supposed to know about it because it's my Christmas present.
I've been getting spurts of homesickness as it gets closer to Christmas. It will be hard being away from my family for the first time. I've missed watching holiday movies while drinking hot chocolate, or listening to Trans-Siberian Orchestra. And, I will definitely miss Christmas Eve board game night.
The seminar ended last week, but there was a three-day retreat (kind of an extension of the seminar) at a place called Nagi Gompa, a nunnery just a little ways up in the mountains. I didn't go, but Laura did. She said it was beautiful and I get the sense that she's glad she went. I really enjoyed the seminar and learned more than I probably realize, but I'm glad I opted out of the retreat. It would have been a little much. We've made friends here with many of the students at the monastery so I had to people to hang out with. The monastery has a program on Buddhist Studies through Kathmandu University and the students are from all over. A few nights ago I went out for some Tongba with a few of them. Tongba is Tibetan beer. It's a rather sizable brown barrel (not quite as big as a Big Gulp at 7/11) filled with fermented millet that you poor boiling water over. You drink through a metal straw and it's actually quite good. It gives off the aroma of freshly baked bread and goes really well with Wantan soup. After, we played Texas Hold'em (poker) in an Indian restaurant...Norway, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany and the US were all represented.
Other than that, not much to report until we get to the next destination. I've had a lot of downtime here and hence have bought way too many bootleg DVDs. They're just so cheap! Oh well, now I'll have something to do when I'm unemployed back in the states.
Happy Holidays everyone!

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Day 70 - Bouddha (Kathmandu)

Just a quick post. I didn't end up finding anything going on for World AIDS Day here but I did read an interesting article in the paper today (The Himalayan). It was a brief article about how poor Nepalis, especially in the Western region, are going to Voluntary Counseling and Blood Testing (VCBT) centers and trying to pass as HIV positive when in fact they are not. I don't know if they bribe the testers or try to skew the results somehow, the article didn't say. Ultimately, people are trying to fake positive tests so that they can get the money the government gives to HIV positive people for health costs. It's surprisingly common and on the rise. The article interviewed a widow who has been successfully passing as positive and using the money to feed her family. It's hard to imagine that people live in such a desperate state as to pretend to have a fatal disease that kills millions worldwide and is still rising in some areas due to lack of proper information and access to healthcare. The article said that nearly 1,000 people in the region are thought to actually be HIV positive. What effect will the people faking positive results have on these people who need medication? When pretending doesn't work anymore, how far will they go to get that positive test result?
Perhaps not the most uplifting blog post, I'm sorry. The article just struck me today and I felt like sharing.
We just ate some delicious Momos with Sangey, a Tibetan monk that Laura's parents met while they were here last year. He and his family have been so kind to us, showing us around some places and making sure we are alright. I had a bit of a stomach illness a few days ago and I think Sangey has asked me how I'm feeling every day since. It's nice to spend time with him and talk about the state of Tibet, the situation with the Maoists here in Nepal, or even just the weather or how much we like Momos.
There's not much else to report. Bouddha is very relaxing and we've had a lot of time to explore some interesting places, but mostly we just read in the garden of the guest house while drinking warm drinks. Hope all is well for all of you.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Day 66 - Boudha

We have made it safely to Kathmandu and are staying in a really nice guest house in an area called Boudha. It's connected to a monastery called Shechen, the grounds of which we often walk through on our way out for the day. Sometimes we hear the monks debating as we walk by, which includes a great deal of foot stomping and hand clapping (not in anger of course, but rather part of a very organized system of debate). Shechen is just one of many monasteries in the area. There is also the large, visually amazing Boudha Stupa that rises over the buildings. People do Kora around the stupa, circumambulating the structure while repeating mantras and spinning prayer wheels. In Buddhism, it's a great way to gain merit.
A couple days ago we went with some friends to Pharping, about an hour and a half outside of Kathmandu. There, Thinley Norbu Rinpoche was performing a puja at a monastery called Yellow Gompa. I won't pretend to know much about this particular teacher or pujas, however from talking to others I gathered that Thinley Norbu Rinpoche is an old, highly respected Buddhist teacher that lives in the US and has not been to Nepal in 13 years. Ultimately, the puja lasted about 5 hours and consisted of uninterrupted chanting, throat-singing, drumming and woodwinds. It was amazing to listen to and just feel the vibrations around and inside you. Also, the shrine room of Yellow Gompa was incredibly beautiful, with sculptures, carvings, paintings and tapestries of vibrant reds, golds, blues and greens. I may not have fully comprehended the religious significance of the event, but I definitely appreciated the visual and auditory power of it all.
Yesterday we went to Pashnupatinath, which is the holiest place for Hindus in Nepal. Pashnupati is one of the 1,008 names for Lord Shiva and there are many temples and sculptures there dedicated to Shiva. It sits alongside the Bagmati River (which I believe eventually meets the Ganges). There, they perform cremations twenty-four hours a day. Laura and I sat for an hour or so watching the cremations (which is far less disturbing or unnerving than it sounds). It was quite an amazing experience watching the families bring the bodies of loved ones, wrapped in bright cloth and decorated with garlands, to the riverside to perform all the religious rites. In Hinduism, there are five important elements: water, fire, air, land and sky. The cremations by the river unite all five elements in the single ceremony. The river is also significant in that Hindus bath themselves in it for religious purposes. They fully submerge themselves three times while reciting the ancient Vedas in hopes of breaking from the cycle of reincarnation.
Spending Thanksgiving in Boudha with Laura was so nice, and the first Thanksgiving we've spent together. We went to a little restaurant we found the other day called Double Dorjee. It is officially my favorite restaurant on the whole trip so far. The woman who runs it is very warm and friendly and the food is delicious. We had beer, mashed potatoes, fried veggies and apple pie, as close as we could get to a Thanksgiving dinner. The power went out at one point so we even got to finish our meal by candlelight. I know that, for me, it was the one of the best Thanksgivings I could ask for (no offense family).
Tuesday is the annual World AIDS Day (December 1) and I'm curious to see what will be done in Kathmandu. Laura and I e-mailed 3 organizations in hopes of finding a volunteer opportunity, but have heard from none. I'm thinking that we'll just head out in the morning and see if there's anything being done and somehow latch on, either as participants or volunteers. I don't know at all what to expect. In Kenya it's a huge deal and in some places it's a week-long thing rather than a single day. It'll be interesting to get a comparison.
Thus marks the first post from Nepal. I hope everyone had a lovely Thanksgiving!

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Day 59 - Delhi

I figured that, for what is most likely my last post from India, I would share some memories not previously shared on this blog.

1. Ordering a Peanut Butter Pancake (which was on the menu) in Bodhgaya and repeating my order only to receive a Paneer Butter Pancake. Paneer is an Indian cheese. Needless to say a pancake with cheese and butter is not a healthy snack for my heart.

2. Leaving our guest house in Diu at 5:00am to catch a bus, only to find that the doors are all locked from the outside. We were literally locked in and had to bang on the doors for the owners to wake up and let us out.

3. While building a sand castle on the beach with Laura, a young boy came and watched us silently. The next day, on a different beach, that boy saw us and began to point at us and say things to his two friends. Then they started to build a sand castle.

4. Sitting on the roof of our guest house in Bundi talking and laughing with the owner about the problems all the monkeys cause and how he should go get his gun. Then, watching in shock as he actually comes back up with a BB-gun and proceeds to shoot at the monkeys.

5. Riding in a rickshaw over what is possibly the worst road in India for an hour and a half each way, including multiple stops by the driver to ask for directions from people on the street.

There's some pics posted on Laura's blog, so check them out...http://laurawwoofs.blogspot.com

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Day 55 - Diu

After 18 hours on a train, 3 hours sitting around the bus station in Rajkot, and 8 hours on a bus, we finally arrived in Diu, an island off the West coast in the Arabian Sea. The days here have been beautiful with temperatures in the 80s (F), bright sunny skies, and sandy beaches. I know most of you are gearing up for Thanksgiving and bracing November rains (or snows) so I'm sure you're glad to hear we're getting tanner every day. There are two particularly nice beaches within walking distance from our guest house. However, they seem to be relatively unattended. Aside from the random groups of young Indian men who pull up, run to the water, take a group photo and run away, it's generally just a few other tourists and us. Next to one beach there's a monument to the INS Khukri, an Indian naval ship that was sunk by Pakistani's in the 70s. As we sit on the beach, there's a constant stream of Indian groups and families that visit the monument, stare or wave at us, then leave.

Yesterday we decided to rent a moped, which was 200 Rupees (US$4.50) for 24 hours. This way we got to speed around the island and see all the sights. We visited a church that was built in 1667 (I think it was for Our Lady of Remedies), some really amazing caves, and Diu Fort, which gives a great view of the ocean. I definitely felt cool driving the moped with Laura on back, awkwardly navigating turns, while 12 year olds passed us on motorcyles.

That's all for now. Tomorrow we begin a long journey back to Delhi. We only have 6 days left in India and I hope to post once before we leave. If not, next time you hear from me I'll be writing from Nepal.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Day 47 - Bundi

I know it's been a while since I posted and a lot has happened. Bodhgaya was great and there's simply too much to talk about, so if you really want to know about that week ask me personally.

After Bodhgaya, we headed to Jaipur for our second three-week stint on a WWOOF farm and our last farm in India. We made it safely to Saharia Amla Organic Farm and promptly left after three nights. There was very little actual work to be done and no one was teaching us anything. Even while we were working we didn't learn anything about what we were doing, why, or anything about the farm. The workers were nice and welcoming, but the managers seemed to never be around and wanted little to do with us. It's an organic resort, so there are guests who pay to stay and then there are volunteers who work to stay in slightly more rustic accomodations. There were huge rats in our room and running through our food in the kitchen. All of this we probably could have stomached save one thing. The first day we got to the farm, there were three little, skinny puppies that were adorable. That evening, the managers decided (whether it was due to guests complaining the puppies were nuisance or to a lack of resources to take care of the puppies) to kill them. It happened suddenly and it took us a while to figure out what exactly was happening, but neither Laura nor I had ever heard such chilling and disturbing sounds before. From that point we were set on leaving, we just had nowhere to go and needed some time to figure out our next step. Fortunately, a lovely Dutch couple came and had some great suggestions and an English version of the Lonely Planet.

To make a long story short, we spent some time in the city of Jaipur, went to a beautiful national park to see some wildlife, and are now in a town called Bundi. To picture the city of Bundi, think of Aladdin, and to picture the surrounding area picture The Jungle Book. Seriously. This morning we went to a gorgeous waterfall that was so peaceful. It falls into this canyon that is filled with lush jungle that smells incredible. The owner of the guest house we're staying in said there's a lot of bears in that area, but we didn't see any. Just a ton of monkeys. Monkeys are everywhere here. We sit on the roof of our guest house drinking chai and watching monkeys jump from rooftop to rooftop. On the hillside sits an enormous historical fort and surrounding walls that is quite incredible to behold. It's definitely still India, with loud noises, odd smells and gawking people, but it's so different from anywhere we've been. Next we head to Diu, which is on the coast of Gujarat and supposedly has some nice sandy beaches to wander.

I am sad that our WWOOF experience in India hasn't been living up to my expectations. I am enjoying this trip immensely, but I had hoped to learn so much more. I learned a good amount on the first farm, but it wasn't an overall positive experience. I'm still holding out for our stay in Nepal, though. I'm looking forward to being able to couple farming and non-farming volunteer opportunities.

I hope you all are well. It's strange being in 80+ degree weather in November, knowing that Winter is starting back home. Everyone here keeps talking about how Winter has come, but really all that means is it gets darker earlier. Oh well, I'll most likely get my Winter during January in Nepal.